Captain Woodbury Doane and his oyster house-ThurstonTalk

2021-11-12 09:05:57 By : Mr. Henry Wong

Visitors to Olympia city centre in the late 19th century can enjoy delicious fresh Olympian oyster pan roasts at Doane's Oyster House. Their unforgettable owner is a retired captain and living legend Captain WJ Doane.

Woodbury Jewitt Doane was born on January 18, 1826 in Maine. He became a sailor when he was young and worked on his father's boat. Doane came to California for the gold rush of 1849, worked as a pilot in British Columbia during the Fraser River gold rush, and later as a partner on Eliza Anderson in Puget Sound. In 1866, Dorn married Elizabeth Pendergast (1845-1875) in Victoria BC. The couple have two sons, Woodbury Jr. ("Wood") and George ("Jack").

In 1880 (or 1879) Dorn moved to Olympia and opened an oyster restaurant, commonly known as Dorn’s Oyster House. He first performed the operation at a stall near the location of the Olympia National Bank along Congress Avenue, but when the building burned down in the fire and destroyed the area, disaster happened. Dorn reopened the room in a small room on the south side of Fifth Street. This was the only place he could find. It is nicknamed the "hole in the wall".

In 1889, the year Washington became a state, Donne opened his business at his last and most famous location on the south side of Fifth Street. He lives across from his restaurant, and his barn and garden extend along the back of the building. His rose garden is a local landmark. On April 16, 1893, the Olympia Morning News wrote: “Captain Doane’s oyster house becomes picturesque because of the beautiful garden at the back.” Sailor Sinbad [Wesley Wilken] planted 50 rose bushes and gave Jacob The cloth ladder painted a memorial event. "

Dorn’s restaurant is a local meeting place. Captain Donne is a legendary master and often greets visitors in person. His sons served as waiters for a period of time. Legislators, lobbyists and businessmen meet there, and it is known as a venue for political activities and transactions. This restaurant is also very popular with local families and provides them with a separate area, which Doane calls the ladies' cabin. There is also a restaurant upstairs.

Doane is particularly famous for the oysters that came to be known as Doane's Pan Roast. When asked about the formula in 1922, people debated the perfect formula. Some people say that the chef AJ Johnson has this recipe, or the Chinese chef has this recipe. The Oyster Growers Association provided the following recipe, which was published in the Olympia Morning News on November 1, 1922:

"(Six people). Put a slice of butter about 1 inch thick at the end of a 2-pound roll in a frying pan or kettle. Drain a quarter of Olympia oysters thoroughly and dry with a colander to remove any shell particles; After the butter has melted, put the oysters in the butter and bake them until the edges begin to curl. Prepare a tea cup of the best tomato sauce, three drops of Tabasco sauce, a spoonful of old-fashioned chili sauce, and a spoonful of Woos in a separate container. Special sauce and a teaspoon of salt. Pour on top of the oysters grilled with butter and continue to heat it. Serve hot on the buttered toast."

A local restaurant owner believes that the original recipe has more "stimulation" and "eliminates Tabasco sauce and adds vinegar and some walnuts." Boil the crushed walnuts with the sauce and strain them out. "

Goldie Robertson Funk wrote in describing the legendary dishes in the Pacific Northwest Quarterly (April 1952) that the meal comes with "a large plate of kimchi, coffee or beer, and the price of a pan for many years has been 35 cents for roast beer or coffee." Five cents. After many years, the price was 50 cents."

Most of Dorne's employees are Chinese Americans. He was short of labor when he started his business, and restaurant work is one of the few occupations open to Chinese immigrants. Some of them are members of the Locke family. In 1902, the newspaper mentioned that a popular long-term waiter, Luo Yingrong, returned to work at Dorn's house after becoming seriously ill.

In the 1890s, Doane moved to Tacoma, where he opened another oyster restaurant. He returned to Olympia and retired near his family. Captain Donne died on February 12, 1903. His funeral was held at the home of his niece Topsey Harris, presided over by the pastor of St. John's Episcopal Church. He was buried next to his wife in the Freemasonry Cemetery. The "kind old captain" received widespread condolences.

After the captain's death, his Olympia restaurant was under the control of many owners and managers. In 1916, two young managers absconded to San Francisco. After the restaurant’s napkins, plates, silverware, and crockery were lost, it suddenly closed in 1916. The building was quickly demolished to build the Martin Building (113-119 5th Ave SE).

Captain Donne’s oyster house has been in business for more than 40 years. Even after the closure, residents still fondly remember the restaurant’s delicious food and enthusiastic owners. Today, seafood restaurants are an important part of Olympia, and the city’s connection with Puget Sound remains strong.