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This week, the world-renowned seafood company will reopen Winsor House, the historic Duxbury tavern, with a brand new shelling counter, a rum-soaked bar and caviar-topped whipped cream ice cream.
Windsor House at Island Creek Oyster Farm. / Photo by Morgan Ian Yeager
Every town has such a place: a place where locals reunite on the eve of Thanksgiving. In Duxbury, that place has long been the Windsor House, a historic restaurant (and one-off hotel) located in a Federal-style home built for wealthy businessmen in 1803. After months of closure for major renovations, this place will be the time for an annual tradition again this year-but when it happens, it will look a little different.
Under the new ownership of Duxbury's world-famous Island Creek Oysters, the classic cozy fireplace of the bistro will join a vibrant new life bar, offering rum-focused cocktails, and interesting but exquisite global seafood. Although the casual restaurant will still be an ideal place for high school classmates to gather, it will also be a dining destination for anyone eager to see the highly anticipated next scene of the hometown team, which has helped develop some of the most successful seafood restaurants in Boston.
Located across from the Island Creek oyster farm that breeds bivalves, it now serves many of the best restaurants in Boston and the country. The Windsor House at Island Creek Oyster Farm reflects "who we are, where we come from and how we see The future," said Skip Bennett, a native of Duxbury and founder of Island Creek Oysters. He is now the seventh owner of Winsor House, which has been operating a restaurant since the early 1930s.
Photo by Morgan Ian Yeager
Bennett has worked with local restaurant owners Garrett Harker, Shore Gregory and chef Jeremy Sewall for 10 years. Together, they helped Island Creek Oyster Bar become a key force in the revitalization of Boston's landmark restaurant and Kenmore Square, and launched the equally successful Fort Point restaurant Row 34. Earlier this year, at about the same time, the Island Creek Oyster Bar was permanently closed, and the partners parted ways due to the pandemic stalemate with the landlord.
"We all want to grow, and this growth takes us in different directions," Bennett said. "For me, I just want to stay in Duxbury and let the brand do its own thing."
Photo by Morgan Ian Yeager
Naturally, this means that Winsor House’s menu is full of farm-fresh Island Creek shellfish, including new products such as surf clams and bay scallops, which can only be offered here. In charge of the kitchen is Jeff Whitmore, who was the chef of Hourly Oyster Bar in Cambridge and Straight Wharf in Nantucket.
Photo by Morgan Ian Yeager
Bennett said that in addition to raw shellfish and seafood, these dishes will also include "well-dressed" home-cooked seafood. Expect to find the so-called "bait toast" of mackerel, wild onion puree and sesame seeds on ciabatta; brown butter boiled flounder with grapes, dandelion green and rustic pistachio jam; and ice skating wings and tofu cioppino with clams and polenta And guajillo Chile. Bennett said that there is an interesting balance of elegance and vulgarity on the menu, with menu items ranging from a $9 burger to a $45 olive oil cake with French whipped cream topped with caviar. "We always thought it had to be fun."
Photo by Morgan Ian Yeager
At the same time, in terms of beverages, Winsor House will provide a rum project hosted by Dave Cagle, the former owner of the Cambridge industrial resort Automatic. Last summer, Cagle was responsible for managing the seasonal outdoor Raw Bar drinks at Island Creek Farm; his wife Jess Cagle was the company's hotel management director.
Why is rum? Considering its role in the New England trade, it will be popular throughout the history of Windsor House. (This is also the drink of choice for many oyster farmers, Bennett said.) As for wine selection, the Oriental standard alum Josh Cole mainly chooses natural bottles, focusing on high-salinity varieties that pair with oysters.
Photo by Morgan Ian Yeager
Then came the interior decoration, which Bennett and CEO Chris Sherman said was to reflect the tradition of Duxbury as a seaside village. The wood-panelled tavern at Windsor House has a huge brick fireplace and has always been the "beating heart" of the venue. Sherman said that he is a native of Duxbury and hosted his own pre-wedding dinner at Windsor House. The 24-seat bistro will continue to be the core of operations, with an original bar with new counters and bar seats to watch the peeling process.
The team used Winsor's "Carriage House" as its main restaurant, replacing the white tablecloths for a more modern appearance, centered on a new mural depicting a ship of the Winsor family at sea, painted by Scituate artist Michael Coyne.
The most important change the Island Creek team made to the historic space was the addition of a new bar and lounge at the front of the building. Two small private restaurants are combined, adding a dining table that can seat 36 people, a bar for 18 people, and a beverage rack for 5 people. There are also three fireplaces in the area, including a double-sided fireplace next to a communal table.
"This is a joyous space, and we [think of it as] the meeting place of the restaurant," Bennett said.
Photo by Morgan Ian Yeager
Winsor House is the latest project of a company that is constantly looking for new ways to grow: Four years ago, Bennett expanded his farm to an 11-acre waterfront park. In 2018, Island Creek launched a seasonal outdoor raw bar there, allowing oyster lovers to sip at the source for the first time. In addition, Island Creek continues to operate a sashimi and shellfish market in Portland, Maine.
Although he parted ways with his previous restaurant partners, Bennett said his background in Boston was very useful for launching this newest Duxbury business.
"I am really proud of our past and what we have done. We have really learned a lot about operating restaurants," Bennett said. "Without this experience, I would never have the courage to buy Winsor House and try to run it."
Dinner only, Wednesday to Sunday, 390 Washington St., Duxbury, phone 781-934-0991, winsorhouse.islandcreekoysters.com.
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